'We know that long-haired, California-girl stereotype, but surprisingly, hair is going shorter--at Umberto, a superhot salon, women are showing off their shoulders with cropped locks--while, on the cosmetics front, the latest rage is custom-blended makeup from the Marilyn Young Makeup Studio. And since this is the town where self-expression reaches new heights, you'll see plenty of whimsical sunglasses; big floppy hats; cowboy boots with lacy leggings; outrageous faux jewels. These and other flashy fashions turn up both by day and after dark at such haunts as the China Club and Poo-Na-Na Speakeasy